Tools Required:

• Toyota Supra Repair Manuals
• Deep 10mm socket
• Big hammer (~4lb)
• Dead-blow (plastic/rubber) hammer
• 8' of 5/16" nylon or polyester rope, with a knot tied at one end
• A 2'x3/16" aluminum rod
• Valve Stem Seal tool (NB: Needle-nose pliers do not work)
  • Blue Point (Snap-On) part#YA8230 7
    Less expensive alternatives - I have not tried these myself:
  • Toyotool Item: "Valve Seal Pliers"
  • Autopart Item: "2205 Valve Stem Seal Pliers"

• Pictured to the right is a hand-made keeper removal tool, and can be either made yourself or purchased (contact me if you'd like to purchase one).  Instructions to fabricate the tool are as follows:
• Use a high-density plastic, delrin (preferred) or a hardwood dowel, drill a big hole in the end, a smaller hole inside that one, and epoxy a strong magnet into the small hole.  Here is a link where I believe you can obtain some of the UHMW/Delrin Rod/Dowel that is used in the valve stem seal tools in the picture.  A 1" dowel/rod should work well.
• The removal tool's inner diameter should be as large as possible, while still keeping a strong shell on the outside to take the force. I'd estimate that the inner 'hole' should be about 5/8", which would allow for a 3/16" wall to push the retainer down with. If you wanted to be really safe, drill a 1/2" hole and then the wall will be a full 1/4" thick - the problem is there might not be enough clearance for the keepers to pop out of the valve with a 1/2" hole...
• Place the magnet about 1/2" to 3/4" deep. The depth has to be enough so that the magnet never hits the top of the valve, no matter how much you compress the valve spring while pushing on the retainer. The magnet also can't be too deep or the magnet will not be strong enough to 'catch' the keepers most of the time
  
  
   
• This Snap-On tool (pictured on the right) will work for keeper insertion, but only if it is modified so that it doesn't scratch the bucket bores
• This tool is modified by taking a large file and filing the knurl on the end completely smooth near the end (as in the picture)
  
  
  
  
  
   

• This Toyotool combo keeper insertion/removal tool (Item Number: VMT6) works well.

• One more tool that also reportedly works very well is this Keeper-EEZE tool

Seal Removal Pliers

Keeper Removal Tool

Keeper Insertion Tool

• Remove the two engine lift hooks from the head
• Detach one end of the heater hose and move it aside
• (optiona) Remove the reed valve (if oem twin turbos)
• Remove cam covers, camshafts, and spark plugs according to Toyota Supra Repair Manual
• Note that you should measure the shim clearance before removing the cams.  If any are out of spec, they can be replaced at the end of the install
• Remove all of the buckets and shims, keeping them in order (do not mix them up - this is critical!)
• ...or...
• Alternatively, you can remove one bucket&shim at a time, as you do them.

• Set the piston in cylinder#1 to BDC (Bottom Dead Center).  You can put the aluminum rod into the sparkplug hole and watch it while another person turns the crankshaft with a 22mm socket & ratchet to find BDC.  Mark the depth of BDC on the aluminum rod for reference on the other cylinders.
• Using the other aluminum rod (sharpening the tip a bit helps), stuff all 8' of the nylon rope into the cylinder (as in the pic below), and then move the piston towards TDC (top dead center), until you feel the piston VERY firmly compressing the rope against the head & the bottom of the valves.  The pic below shows cylinder #2 with the rope, but I'd recommend you start with #1, just to stay organized. ☻
• Note: In the diagrams, we're working on the valve circled in yellow in the pic on the right

• Put the Keeper Removal tool on top of the retainer, and give the top of the tool a light blow with the big hammer.  The keepers will pop right out and stick to the magnet inside of the tool, as shown

• Remove the spring&retainer, reach in with the seal removal pliers and remove the seal.  Again, don't try this with needle-nose pliers: when (not if) the pliers slip off the seal, they will scratch the valve stem.  The intake-side seals are often on so hard that they are very, very difficult to remove, even with these special pliers.
• After removing the seal, inspect the base of where the seal was installed.  Often (especially on the exhaust side), a ring of rubber from inside the old seal will break off, and you'll need to use your aluminum rod to remove this debris.

• Coat the inside of the new valve stem seal with Redline assembly lube, and with your fingers or the seal pliers, place the new valve stem seal (make sure you put intake seals onto the intake side and exhaust seals onto the exhaust side) over the top of the valve stem, onto the top of the valve guide (as in the pic to the right).  Gently, and then gradually more firmly push the seal down with 10mm deep socket until it kind of 'double-clicks' into place.  Be sure you're pushing the seal down as squarely/centered as possible so the seal seats properly and so the valve stem doesn't get scratched.

• With the deep 10mm socket over the valve stem, centered on the top of the seal.  Give two light, but firm blows with the dead-blow hammer.  Careful - if you hit too hard, it will misshape the valve stem seal, or the metal shell of the seal will cut completely through the seal's rubber, ruining the seal.  On the other hand, if you don't hit firmly enough, the seal might not be properly seated.  I estimate about a 2" 'windup' and a relatively firm (but not hard) hit.
• As you might guess, this step is the most critical step in ensuring your new seals will perform properly.  If you suspect a seal may have gotten bent, or the rubber was damaged in this step, I'd advise to replace the seal now rather than hoping it will work after reassembly.

• Replace the spring and retainer, and then carefully place the 2 keepers into the retainer, above the top of the valve stem, as in the pic below.  Be sure not to drop the keepers - they can fall into inaccessible crevices, which may require head and/or oil pan removal.
• Push the keeper insertion tool's tip in between the keepers, and push down straight and fairly hard, and the keepers will pop into place.  NB: This technique takes some practice to perfect. Also, do not hit the keeper insertion tool with a hammer - your keepers will go flying across your garage or into your engine.
• If only one keeper gets stuck in and the other is out, you'll have to use the keeper removal tool to remove the one keeper and start this step over.
• After the keepers look like they have been seated properly, give the top of the valve/retainer a tap with the plastic hammer to be sure they are locked in place.